Bucharest reported deadpan by two voices who never crack: a shepherd whose name means joy, a founding letter signed by the Impaler, kerosene streetlamps before the other great capitals had them, an Athenaeum bought one leu at a time, and a boulevard measured one metre past the Champs-Élysées. Six sectors meet at a single stone, and behind the apartment blocks, whole churches once rolled there on rails are still standing.